380 for the simple reason the head diameter is too big for the breech face of your gun and you cant squeeze the base of the 9mm case to equal the diameter of the. Uniformed neck wall thickness, to me, was necessary to make the case weights mean something when I segregated by weight. In other words, even if you did cut them down, they wont work in your. If you have a bag of once-fired 9mm brass, this includes taking out all of the 380 auto that might be mixed in. The 9mm is a slightly tapered case that doesnt stretch as much as a bottle-nech case, and sees very little or no stretching on firing. You dont want too much crimp because that will affect head space. My idea was that if it's resized, trimmed/chamfered/deburred the only wall thickness not correlating to internal volume was the neck wall thickness. Trimming 9mm brass - well - it is a thing you CAN do - but it wont help much with accuracy. Most folks trim cases to a given length for convenience, squaring up case mouths and preventing case mouths being crimped into bullets if the firing pin drives them into chamber mouth shoulders. I do trim all revolver cases, or buy new stuff that is consistent in length. The rifle brass got one more step - I used a forster case trimmer to turn the necks down to consistent thicknesses prior to weighing. You could size everything, then sort out all the cases into groups by weight and length, but I know my mixed brass 9MM loads can out shoot me. If I was going to weigh brass I'd do it similar to the rifle brass mentioned above - resize it, trim it to length, chamfer/deburr the case mouth. In those days I did keep my brass sorted/segregated by head stamp and tried to keep it together by box. The only center fire semi auto pistol I've ever shot past 50 meters is my old 1911 Colt. Never saw the need to weigh pistol cases. Gave up as none of that worked (to make it shoot like I wanted it to shoot). As a reloading exercise I've only weighed 7.62X51 brass and sorted it, while trying to make my M1A shoot to suit me (almost 40 years ago). It is fully micrometer adjustable (each notch represents approximately 0.002), and uses the case shoulder for support. This trimmer works with a cordless drill or drill press to quickly and efficiently trim your brass. Plus the Case Trim Xpress is made with a compact, low profile housing that doesn’t eat up all of your bench space. Trimming 9mm Brass Northwest Firearms Search discussions Accessories & Maintenance Ammunition & Reloading Join the 1 community for gun owners of the Northwest We believe the 2nd Amendment is best defended through grass-roots organization, education, and advocacy centered around individual gun owners. The Trim-It case trimmer is another neat little gadget that can deliver very accurate results. In addition, the Case Trim Xpress is equipped with an adjustment wheel, which allows case lengths to easily be “dialed in” to. No pilots are needed! The bushings are spring loaded to provide a smooth, effortless cut and allow the user to trim approximately 15 cases per minute. The bushings support and center the case with the cutter. The trimmer comes with a set of 10 bushings (in orange type below) designed to fit most popular bot- tleneck rifle cases. I would agree that case trimming is a PITA, and whether it is worth it or not, depends on your accuracy goals. The 9mm cases seem to have much great length variation than most other handgun cases. By using bushings that contact on the shoulder of bottle neck type cases, the Case Trim Xpress will quickly and cleanly trim your brass by simply pushing the case against the long lasting carbide cutter. If the answer is very much, then sort brass by headstamp and length, which can be by measurement or trimming. Lyman’s Case Trim Xpress gives rifle reloaders the speed and accuracy that they have been looking for when trimming cases! The unit has its own power source, and a strong variable speed motor, so there is no need to use power drills or pur- chase separate motors.
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